Albert Morot La Bataillere Aux Vergelesses Monopole, Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru, France

莫罗特酒庄韦热莱斯（萨维尼一级园）红葡萄酒

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The 2011 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru La Bataillere Aux Vergelesses offers a light bouquet of boysenberry, briary and undergrowth aromas, the latter becoming more pronounced with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins and it seems to become attenuated toward the finish. Light, easy-drinking Pinot Noir. Drink now. Albert Morot was a negociant for its first seven decades until they acquired a parcel of vines in 1890. The gloriously named Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry has been responsible for the wines since 2000, when his aunt (great-granddaughter of Albert Morot), Francoise Choppin, retired. Henceforth, they have concentrated on domaine-bottled wines. Traditionally they held back on the level of new oak, although this has crept up in recent vintages as well as longer elevage. Fruit is handpicked, bunches totally de-stemmed, and bottling done without fining or filtration. This was a solid set of 2011s with the exception of an under-performing Beaune Toussaints. Otherwise, the wines exhibited judicious winemaking, clean, fresh fruit, and poised finishes. While they did not elicit superlatives this time, I suspect that more benevolent vintages such as 2009 or 2010 may be worth investigating. For now, these 2011s represent fine Pinot Noirs that deserves another 12 to 18 months in bottle. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083 and through Berry Brothers & Rudd (UK)

Choppin’s 2008 Savigny-les-Beaune La Batailliere aux Vergelesses is scented with Szechuan pepper, blond tobacco, dark cherry, leather, and dark berries accented by cherry pit bitterness on a tartly fresh-fruited yet slightly drying palate. It finishes with impressive persistence, a bit of a tannin that catches the throat, and slight alcoholic warmth. Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry was among those growers to report that more rigorous sorting was required for his 2008 fruit than had been needed the previous vintage. I tasted his 2008s from tank, where they were spending a bit longer than usual, in order to gas-out after very late malos. Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083