Clos Saint Jean Sanctus Sanctorum, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

圣简酒庄至圣所红葡萄酒

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When I visited in June 2019, the selection for the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum hadn't yet been done, so this is my first look at the wine. It's marked by the new oak demi-muids, with layers of vanilla and cedar sitting atop luscious cherry fruit on the nose, and slightly drying wood tannins evident on the full-bodied palate and extending through the long finish. Personally, I prefer the less-obvious wood and nuanced complexities in the estate's other premium cuvées in 2018, but there is no denying the hedonistic appeal of this 100% Grenache.

Bottled only in magnum, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum is 100% Grenache aged in new demi-muids. Loaded with vanilla and super ripe cherries, it is the antithesis of what French wines were in the not-too-distant past. Practically dessert in a glass, it's full-bodied, rich, concentrated and velvety, finishing long, plush and satisfying. Purists will no doubt recoil, but this hedonistic wine delivers boatloads of pleasure.

Bottled only in magnum, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum was made entirely from Grenache planted in 1905 and aged in new demi-muids, yet it has completely absorbed any trace of barrel. Incredibly intense and dramatic, it combines savory notes of licorice and dark roses with black cherries and dried spices. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, with a mind-bendingly long finish, it's a tour de force that may prove to be perfection for some readers.

The pure Grenache 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum was matured in a combination of clay amphorae and new demi-muids. It's an enormous yet fruit-driven wine, endowed with masses of raspberries and stone fruit yet featuring complexity in the form of dried spices, like cinnamon, clove and allspice. Creamy and intense, it's a roller coaster ride of exuberance, yet it's ultimately elegant as it glides into a nearly never-ending finish. The only thing that kept me from going higher was the slight bit of warmth on the finish, which I think limits the wine's aging potential.