Domaine Denis Berthaut Les Cazetiers, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, France

贝铎酒庄卡姿迪（热夫雷-香贝丹一级园）干红葡萄酒

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The earthy and distinctly sauvage-suffused nose of various dark berry fruit scents is trimmed in just enough wood to mention. There is an overt muscularity to the intense, driving and mineral-driven flavors that possess a highly appealing sense of energy, all wrapped in a mildly austere and powerful finish. This robust and firmly structured effort is very Cazetiers in basic character and should age accordingly.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Gevrey Chambertin 1Er Cru Cazetiers from Denis Berthaut was darker in color compared to its peers; likewise, the fruit is black instead of red, although at the moment it is obscured by a bit of oak that clearly needs time to be fully assimilated. The palate is well balanced with supple black fruit, grippy in the mouth, but it comes across as a little charmless at the moment. Hopefully it will gain more terroir expression and regain the stylishness that it exuded from barrel. Tasted September 2017.

Strong reduction renders the slightly woody nose unreadable. Like the Arvelets there is a terrific sense of underlying tension to the beautifully well-delineated, powerful and stony medium weight flavors that culminate in a tautly muscular, moderately austere, dusty and mouth coating finish. This is textbook Cazetiers with its combination of power, minerality and touch of Gevrey animale.

There are just two barrels of the 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetiers, both new, from a métayage holding and was 100% destemmed. It has a rather taciturn nose when I tasted from barrel, though the palate is well balanced with supple tannin: a surfeit of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit suffused with the purity and mineralité commensurate with this fine premier cru vineyard. Just afford it two or three years once in bottle to fully absorb that new wood.

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers has a perfumed bouquet with an exotic streak: hints of fig and date combining nicely with the pretty red summer fruit. You can appreciate the purity here. The palate is medium-bodied and fresh on the entry, a Gevrey underpinned by playful red fruit, full of vim and vigor, though needing more complexity on the finish to be a top Cazetiers. Drink now-2020.