Domaine la Soumade Merlot VDP d'Orange

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The soft 2007 Vin de Pays Merlot (100% Merlot) exhibits notes of cocoa, plums, and cherries offered in a sexy, up-front, straightforward, plush, fruity style. It is meant to be consumed during its first 5-6 years of life. Few vignerons are more interesting to visit than Domaine La Soumade’s Andre Romero, whose wines are longtime reference points for the wines of Rasteau, a village with some incredible terroirs as well as a high percentage of old vine Grenache. Romero makes a bevy of Vin de Pays offerings, but his finest cuvees are his Cotes du Rhone and Rasteau wines. He also produces a small amount of Gigondas. Readers who don’t think Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon can do well in the Mistral winds and dry heat of the southern Rhone should check out Soumade’s offerings. St.-Emilion’s guru, Stephane Derenoncourt is the consulting winemaker, which may help explain why these wines are so good.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2006 Vin de Pays Merlot may be even better than the 2007, an anomaly between these two vintages. This seductive, lush effort reveals sweet black cherry, chocolate, coffee bean, and mocha characteristics. Round, broad, and savory with low acidity, it is best drunk over the next 4-5 years. Few vignerons are more interesting to visit than Domaine La Soumade’s Andre Romero, whose wines are longtime reference points for the wines of Rasteau, a village with some incredible terroirs as well as a high percentage of old vine Grenache. Romero makes a bevy of Vin de Pays offerings, but his finest cuvees are his Cotes du Rhone and Rasteau wines. He also produces a small amount of Gigondas. Readers who don’t think Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon can do well in the Mistral winds and dry heat of the southern Rhone should check out Soumade’s offerings. St.-Emilion’s guru, Stephane Derenoncourt is the consulting winemaker, which may help explain why these wines are so good.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Neither the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon VdP or 2005 Merlot VdP performed as well as their 2006 counterparts as the tannins were dry, hard, and desiccating. Andre Romero continues to turn out an impressive portfolio of wines. Several of his vin de pays fly under most consumer’s radar as one does not generally associate Bordeaux varietals with the southern Rhone. 2006 was a very good vintage for Romero, a notoriously late harvester.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.

The thick, ripe 2004 Merlot VDP d’Orange (100% Merlot) offers hints of peaches, black cherries, and cola. While not complex, it offers a chewy texture, a full-bodied, opulent, personality, and a serious mouthful of silky Merlot. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2003 Merlot VDP d’Orange offers hints of Provencal garrigue and gamy meats in its tropical, exotic personality. It does not possess the lushness or fruit intensity of the 2004. Nevertheless, it is a solidly made offering to drink over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565