Val Haraszthy, the great-great-grandson of California viticultural pioneer Agoston Haraszthy, has made California Zins his focus, with offerings from Sonoma, Howell Mountain and here, Amador County. The result here is a tad rough, an unbelievably big (15.6% alcohol) wine that doesn’t deliver much yet in terms of aroma or taste. Maybe in time? ——V.B.(6/1/2011)—— 84
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