As for the 1990, I have had the good fortune to drink nearly three cases, and it has been one of the triumphs of my cellar. A mere 1-2 years ago, I enjoyed a succession of perfect “100 point” bottles, but the last several bottles have merited 96-100 points, perhaps revealing the direction of this wine’s evolution. Nevertheless, this is riveting stuff. A legendary Rayas made from extremely ripe Grenache, it exhibits notes of over-ripe kirsch, raspberries, cherries, game, licorice, and tobacco. This unctuously-textured, thick, juicy Chateauneuf must tip the scale at 15.5% alcohol. It is truly a Rhone Valley monument. Owners, however, should consume it over the next 8-10 years. Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
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