Mas d'en Gil Coma Blanca, Priorat DOCa, Spain

玛吉尔庄园科马白葡萄酒

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The smoky and ashy 2017 Coma Blanca was produced with a blend of 60% Macabeo and 40% Garnacha Blanca from four plots of old vines on their property, now labeled as Vi de Finca Qualificada, the single-vineyard category from Priorat. It fermented in stainless steel and matured in 500-liter French and Austrian oak barrels for nine months. It's ripe and heady with 15% alcohol, powerful and Mediterranean with pungent flavors and a dry finish. 2,428 bottles were filled in May 2018.

The elegant white 2016 Coma Blanca is a nuanced and subtle blend of 60% Macabeo and 40% Garnacha Blanca from the older vineyards of the estate on slate, alluvial and sandy soils (the property has a diversity of soils unmatched in Priorat). It fermented in stainless steel and matured in 500-liter oak barrels for six months, and the bottles were kept for a couple of years before the wine was released into the market. There is unusual finesse in this vintage, unmatched purity and superb texture. It's a Mediterranean white with good body, the texture of a Grand Cru Burgundy, pungent but subtle flavors and a dry and faintly bitter finish. 3,098 bottles were filled in May 2017.

Wearing a classical label on a Burgundy bottle that very much resembles the wines produced at the property years ago, the top of the range in white is the 2014 Coma Blanca. It is produced with 60% Macabeo and 40% Garnacha Blanca from the older vineyards and has an intense, developed and captivating nose. It mixes aromas of dried flowers and spices with a hint of petrol and some iodine, making it lightly balsamic and medicinal. The palate shows some lightness that is unexpected, coming through as fluid and fresh, with good balance; it's more about the freshness of the backbone and salty minerality. Complex and balanced. The aging was only six months in 500-liter French and Austrian oak barrels. This is a wine that develops nicely in bottle and can go for a decade. Enjoy it in a large glass. 2,348 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2015.

The top white is the 2013 Coma Blanca, which is a blend of grapes from four different plots planted with Macabeo and Garnacha Blanca from diverse soils (their property has incredibly varied soils, quite unusual for Priorat). It might be a tad lighter and less concentrated, with more acidity and freshness, but it's not a shy or wimpy white -- it packs 15% alcohol. It contains approximately half of each variety and it matured for six months in 500-liter French and Austrian oak barrels. The nose is subtle, with elegance and incipient complexity, even though it still feels very young. With time and air it starts showing some notes of fennel, more insinuating compared with the Coma Alta, which is more obvious. This has a superb balance and it should age nicely in bottle. It ends dry and with strong minerality. Again, this is (one of) the best vintage(s) for this wine. 2,761 bottles were produced and bottled in May 2014.

The white 2012 Coma Blanca is a balanced, barrel-fermented blend of Garnacha Blanca and Macabeo. It's obviously young, un-evolved and shows the effect of the élevage more than its younger white sibling, though the power and inherent concentration of the fruit and the vintage should soon absorb it. Pollen, beeswax, yellow fruit and white flowers with an unusual, chalky minerality (as the soil is slate) define this super white Priorat. A serious white Priorat for the medium- and long-term. 3,368 bottles produced.