Quinta do Crasto Reserva Old Vines, Douro, Portugal

克拉斯托酒庄珍藏老藤红葡萄酒

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One of the icons of the modern Douro reds, from 42 plots of old vines on the beautiful Quinta do Crasto property (three plots didn't make it to the final blend in 2021), the 2021 Reserva Old Vines (or Vinhas Velhas) comes from different plots averaging 70 years of age. It has the perfumed, outgoing and exuberant nose it has always had, floral, spicy and showy, smoky and nuanced. The destemmed grapes fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, and the wine matured for 18 months in oak barrels, 85% French and 15% American. The palate is medium to full-bodied with superb balance and very fine tannins. It still shows very good value for money. It has 14% alcohol with a pH of 3..66 and 5.2 grams of acidity. It's approachable but with aging potential. 90,000 bottles and some larger and smaller formats produced. It was bottled in July 2023.

The 2019 Reserva Old Vines (average age of 70 years) was aged for 16 to 18 months, depending on vineyard plots, in 65% new (85% French) oak. It comes in at 14.8% alcohol. This represents 38 of Crasto's 42 plots and/or small vineyards of old vines, with Maria Teresa and Vinha da Ponte both bottled separately this year. Dark, deep and rich, this leans to bitter chocolate this year. Like most of these 2019s from Crasto, it adds a serious backbone and demands some cellaring. I tend to put a fairly early "start" date for drinking windows, but that doesn't mean it will be at peak or fully ready. One of the more powerful Old Vines bottlings recently, this should be socked away for a few years. Come back in the middle of the decade for better results. I could say that about all of Crasto's reds in this report. It's a powerful group. There were 90,000 bottles produced, plus some half bottles and large-format bottles.

The 2018 Reserva Old Vines (average age of 70 years) was aged for 16 to 18 months, depending on vineyard plots, in 65% new (85% French) oak. It comes in at 14.6% alcohol. This represents 39 of Crasto's 42 plots and/or small vineyards of old vines, with Maria Teresa and Vinha da Ponte bottled separately. Notwithstanding that, this still looks like a super Reserva Old Vines, always a fine value point among Crasto's upper-level offerings. On opening, it seemed a bit leaner and a little more compact than its upper-level siblings, but that is somewhat misleading as a final verdict because this has other virtues. This might be the best of Crasto's offerings when it comes to mid-palate finesse. It is textured with velvet. It is precise and long on the finish. It is beautifully structured as well, showing surprising power. This looks like a great Reserva Old Vines, perhaps the best since the 2015 and perhaps superior to that. The only question now is where the ceiling is for this wine as it develops and tries to prove that it can be more complex and expressive. We'll need a couple of years for that answer to become clearer, as this is shut down a bit right now. At the price point, this is the one to load up on in Crasto's lineup. It's a perfect mixture of value, aging ability and quality. The Crasto Superior might be an even better value choice, but I don't think that has as much upside potential; the Superior today also has the advantage of another year in the bottle, thus showing a bit more development. There were 84,778 bottles produced, plus some large and small format bottles.

The 2017 Reserva Old Vines (average age of 70 years) represents 39 of Crasto's 42 plots and/or small vineyards of old vines. In 2017, two were discarded for poor performance, while Maria Teresa (but not Ponte) was bottled separately this year. This was aged for 16 to 18 months, depending on lot, in 65% new oak (85/15 French and American) and comes in at 14% alcohol. This was bottled in October 2019, so it had several months of rest when seen. This more understated red is not as attention-getting as some of the other upper-level wines, but it has many bragging points of its own—and a more attractive price point, which makes it a nice compromise between value and quality. Sensually textured, this caresses the mouth with silk and velvet. The mid-palate shows good finesse. Then, it adds fine fruit as it evolves. This graceful wine also shows the ability to flesh out in the glass. It then begins to display more power as well, but it's always well controlled. This is relatively approachable, but it could certainly use another year in bottle (more would help). It should age rather well, holding for 20 or so years from vintage date, at least. There were 90,000 bottles produced.

The 2016 Reserva Old Vines (an average age of 70 years) represents 37 of Crasto's 42 plots and/or small vineyards of old vines. In 2016, three were discarded for poor performance, while Maria Teresa and Ponte were not included because they were bottled separately this year. It was aged for 16 to 18 months, depending on lot, in 65% new oak (85/15 French and American) and comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Solid in the mid-palate, this has impressive depth and a seductive demeanor. The finish lingers beautifully. After an initial creamy hit of texture, it becomes silkier and sensual. Beautifully balanced, this has moderate tannins. It drank well after some hours of double decanting, but it is not really ready to drink. It will be much better around 2023, although it is approachable. How does it compare to the 2015 revisited this issue? They weren't really tasted together, although in relatively close proximity. The 2015 may have better-defined fruit. This might have a little more depth. They are both very fine and a lot of fun. They both need to develop some complexity. It will take a few years to determine who the winner is for sure. I lean to the 2015, but let's call it even for the moment. There were 87,000 bottles produced.